Hej
Jag fick lite tips via e-mail, om lite olika sätt att framkalla Tri-X. (New York Institute of Photography)
Klipper och klistrar in.... (68 grader farenheit är lika med 20 grader Celsius):
"Assuming you're ready to go with Tri-X, here are some of our favorite formulas:
Tri-X shot at ISO 400:
Kodak D-76 developer full strength 8 minutes at 68 degrees Fahrenheit.
(NOTE: Since it's hard to create the degree symbol in e-mail text,
throughout the rest of this letter we'll use the abbreviation "DF" to stand
for degrees Fahrenheit.) We also assume that you're using a small tank
(fluid volume of two quarts or less). Unless otherwise noted, we recommend
agitation for five seconds out of every thirty.
We also use D-76 diluted 1 to 1 (symbol 1:1) with water for Tri-X at 400:
D-76 1:1, 10 minutes at 68 DF
Kodak HC-110 developer, dilution A (1:15) 3-3/4 minutes at 68DF
Kodak HC-110 developer, dilution B (1:31) 7-1/2 minutes at 68DF
Developing Tri-X shot at ISO 200:
Some photographers like to overexpose Tri-X and give it a little less
development. For that purpose, we use D-76
Tri-X at ISO 200
D-76 full strength, 6 or 6-1/2 minutes at 68DF
D-76 (1:1) 8 minutes at 68DF
Tri-X at ISO 800, 1200, 1600:
By the way, I use regular HC-110 developer a lot, because I hate sitting
around mixing powdered D-76 and then waiting for it to cool. If you've
never tried HC-110, I recommend you do so. You'll read on the package that
there are two ways to dilute HC-110, called, not surprisingly, Dilution A
and Dilution B. I'll leave it to those of you who try HC-110 to work
through the instructions, they're clear and straightforward.
I use HC-110, dilution B to process Tri-X at ISO 400, developing for 8
minutes at 68-degrees; HC-110, dilution A for Tri-X rated at ISO 800 for
5-1/2 minutes at 68-degrees; HC-110, dilution A for Tri-X rated at ISO 1200
for 6-1/2 minutes at 68-degrees; and HC-110, dilution A for Tri-X rated at
ISO 1600 for 8 minutes at 68-degrees. For each of these processes, I use
the developer at a one-shot and agitate 5 seconds every 30 seconds. I then
use water, not stop bath to rinse the film and then fix and wash as normal.
Now I am going to give you my "secret" formula for processing Tri-X.
I'm glad to learn that there are so many photographers out there who still
use this great film. No only use it, but obviously have a passion for it.
I would venture to guess that over the past 25 years I've processed 20,000
or more rolls of Tri-X. Does that mean I've shot close to 1,000 rolls a
year? No, but running teaching programs for years in a variety of
community settings--including prisons, hospitals, and senior citizens
programs, I've overseen the process of thousands and thousands of rolls of
Tri-X 35mm and 120. A lot of the time that was film that had been bulk
loaded from 100-foot rolls.
I've used a number of different developers with Tri-X: D-76, HC-110, FG-7,
Rodinal and half a dozen others, many now gone from the market place. I'll
never forget the night I met a Japanese woman who was a dance photographer.
That memorable night, she gave me her secret formula for pushing Tri-X to
ISO 5000. Think about that. Tri-X's normal ISO is 400, one stop push is
800, two stops 1600, three stops 3200. That means ISO 5000 is about 3-1-3
stops.
The photographer asked me to keep the formula a secret. I just recently
saw her written up in the New York Times. She's out of the photography
world and now makes accessory and fine art items that are of museum
quality. So, here's her "secret" formula. The only thing that will remain
a secret is her name.
I have to start with a bit of background:
As I've already noted, there is a liquid developer made by Kodak called
HC-110. As with many developers, there is also a separate chemical
replenisher made by Kodak for use with HC-110. Since not everyone who uses
a darkroom uses replenisher, let's take a moment and explain what a
replenisher is. When you develop film, some people use the developer as a
"one shot." That means you make a diluted version of the developer, use it
to process one tankful of film,
and throw it out when you're done. Some labs choose to use a more
concentrated version of a developer and re-use it a number of times until
the power of the developing agents is expended. Since different chemicals
are used up by the developing process in different amounts, there are
developers whose useful working life can be prolonged by the addition of a
specific replenisher. Usually, a replenisher is a separate product that is
added, bit-by-bit to the original developer depending on the amount of film
that has been run through that batch of developer.
I bet you're starting to wonder what this has to do with my ISO 5000 Tri-X
formula, right? Relax, we're almost there.
To process Tri-X at ISO 5000, you use not HC-110 Developer, but rather,
HC-110 REPLENISHER. You can buy a 16-ounce container of the stuff at a
good camera store, although they may need to order it from Kodak, so you
may have to wait a while to get your hands on it.
To make a solution of this special developer, make a 1:15 solution of
HC-110 Replenisher. That means, one ounce of the replenisher to 15 ounces
of water. So, if you're processing 4 rolls of 35mm film, or 2 rolls of 120
film in a one-quart tank, mix 2 ounces of replenisher with 30 ounces of
water. Unlike many developers that use a 68-degree temperature, this
formula requires that you bring the working solution of HC-110 replenisher
to 75-degrees. The processing time is 5-3/4 minutes at 75-degrees, with
agitation for five seconds every thirty second.
That's all there is to it! Expect to see grain and heavy highlight
areas--that's part of the look. Send me a print if you try this formula.
I should note that this is a one-shot usage. When you're done, toss the
developer. Don't try to replenish the replenisher!
I'm sure this is a little more information than you expected, but I hope
you'll find it useful. If you're interested in learning more about
developing Tri-X and learning about some other developers, stay tuned to
B2B&W. NYI teacher Jerry Rice is about to offer his thoughts on processing
black-and-white film. I promise you'll learn a lot. In the meantime, feel
free to contact me with questions or comments.
Regards,
Chuck DeLaney
Dean, New York Institute of Photography"
/Jacob vP (som ännu inte testat ngt av ovanstående... kör fortfarande med TMax framkallare.)
