One day with and onboard boats in the Stockholm Archipelago in the ice-winter of February 2026

Background

This little photo-illustrated story with 24 pictures is just trying to give you a little hint of how it is to live out there in the islands of the vast Stockholm Archipelago with its 30 000 islands in the ice-winter when most of the tourists are elsewhere. The Stockholm Archipelago is stretching roughly  100 kilometers north and 100 km south of Stockholm. Behind the City island of Stockholm Old Town lays Mälaren which is a big fresh water lake that freezes much faster than the Stockholm Stream on the Baltic Sea side. Malaren has a lot of islands - usually much bigger than the ones in the Baltic Sea. Mälaren is stretching about 100 kilometers west. So there is islands everywhere and they are about 240 000 all together along the long Swedish Cost.

Many people are visiting Stockholm in the summer and around one miljon is said to also visiting or passing the Vaxholm Stad, about 15 nautical miles north of  Stockholm. That is a lot even for a small town of just 5000 people proudly calling itself a Stad or City since the fifteenhoundreds when the King and his government decided to build a fortress on the little island of Vaxholmen in the middle of Waxholm Strait to protect Stockholm from intruders. So going by the Vaxholm Boats in the summers is very different from doing it in the ice-winter and the boats often are overcrowded during the turist season. So the best season I think is really to go in the winter time!

The Weather 

The archipelago teaches a quiet lesson: seasons are less about temperature and more about light, water, and collective mood. Up there, the sun’s angle is the true ruler. The Baltic breathes, the granite remembers glaciers, and humans adjust their poetry accordingly.

Civilizations measure time with calendars. Vaxholm´s Islanders measure it with when the ice breaks and when the first crayfish party begins and what about seasons says some when we sometimes are forced to experiece four or five of them in one single day when the arctic air constantly battles the warmer south continantal temperatures! Sometimes it is snowing on the first of May even as far south as in Stockholm - yes I have experienced that myself a couple of times but that might just because Stockholm lies at roughly the same latitude as the south of Greenland (Kap Farvel) or south Alaska (Haines).

Despite that, Stockholm and Vaxholm are places, that normally with Swedish standards,  usually are relatively warm in the summer with lots of sun - especially if you get out from the main-land among the islands in the summer - it usually is less cloudy out there. However this year 2026 we have experienced a very long cold icy-winter with very few sun hours and also lots of snow. It started in the first half of December when Stockholm just saw the sun for half an hour in more than two weeks  according to the Swedish weather service SMHI - that is probably a record. Even 2024 had a very bad ice-winter with the most ice I even had seen for the 60 years I have lived out here in the archipelago - so much for that global heating in our winter times.

On top of that we have had some other pretty special conditions where we have experienced very low sea water levels and this was the very reason why I went to Stockholm this specific day. These special conditions has exposed an old shipwreck at Kastellholmen in the very center of Stockholm. It is a Danish 17th-century warship, most widely identified as the Grå Ulven (Gray Wolf). It has gained significant attention recently just because of the  exceptionally low water levels in the Baltic Sea, reaching points not seen in approximately 100 years. Personally I have never seen this wreck before in my entire life and that was the reason I went to Stockholm this February day and the old naval base island of Stockholm called Skeppsholmen (The ships island) and the adjacent island of Kastellholmen where this ship lies.  The Baltic Sea has normally almost no tidal movement. Its emergence in early 2026 was caused by an unusually prolonged high-pressure system over the Nordic region, which pushed a lot of water out of the Baltic Sea to the North Sea.

The eight different seasons in Stockholm and Vaxholm Archipelago

But before I will take you there I would like you to know a little about the eight different seasons we live through here over a a year.

Stockholmers do not merely endure weather even if First Aid Kit use to sing about that ("Stockholms cold but I was told I was made to endure that kind of weather").  They curate it. In the Stockholm Archipelago the year is less a circle and more a wobbly philosophical experiment. The “seven or eight seasons” are not official meteorology — they are cultural field observations, refined by generations of boat owners and slightly sunburned philosophers.

Here’s the usual lineup, in brisk form:

1. Ice Winter (Isvinter)
The sea locks up and you can´t use non ice-worthy boats any more. Ferries crunch through brash ice. Silence thickens. The landscape becomes monochrome and stoic.

2. Late-Winter Sun (Vårvinter)
Still freezing, but the light returns like a revelation. People squint optimistically at café tables outside, with far to cold clothes on pretending it is spring, while snow still remains everywhere.

3. Real Spring (Vår)
Explosive, brief, almost suspiciously intense. Birch leaves burst out in neon green. Everyone forgets the previous six months instantly.

4. False Summer (Försommar)
Early June magic. Lilacs bloom. Water still cold enough to re-evaluate life choices. Optimism at peak levels.

5. High Summer (Högsommar)
Midsummer poles, sailing boats, strawberries. The sun barely sets. Mosquitoes run their own empire. Civilization temporarily relocates to wooden cottages.

6. Crayfish and Fermented Herring Season (Kräft- och Surströmming-säsong)
Late summer evenings in the first weeks of August. Crayfish parties with paper lanterns, dill crowns, and songs of questionable pitch. The water is finally warm. This feels like the emotional center of the year. Not the least because all adult Swedes get a proper excause to drink too much Vodka and/or Akvavit (spiced liquor) regardless if it is crayfish or fermented herring on the menu. 

7. Beautiful Autumn (Sensommar/Höst)
Crisp air, golden reeds, mirror-calm water. Philosophical mood activated. Photographers thrive when maples turn yellow and red.

8. November (Just… November)
Not quite winter, not quite autumn but dark, dark, the heavy winds and everything is wet. Low sky. Horizontal rain. Existential realism. This is the “extra” season many insist deserves its own category. Many leaves the country ands goes south together with the migratory birds.

Our journey begins at Rindö Blacksmith Shop

I started my journey by bus from Rindö Island that is the most fortified island in  the Stockholm Archipelago. This island was until 2005 the base for the Swedish Costal Artillery KA 1. It also had an amphibious boat regiment. Since Rindö is an island the only way to leave it is by boat and in this case by one of the big car ferries.

I started on the bus at Rindö Island around 11 o´clock and the bus rolled one of the car ferries at Rindö Smedja, which today is a commercial varf complex where among others the Stockholm - Vaxholm commuter fleet is maintained.

In the background through the windows you can se Vaxholm Town. From Waxholm the commuter boat traffic is reduced to mornings and afternoons especially in the ice-winter since a lot of the commuter fleet is not ice worthy so this day I took the bus into Stockholm.

Overview of the maritime City Park of Stockholm

There has actually been a plan to officially declare the quays and other maritime areas with historical maritime significance  in Stockholm a Maritime Park. To my knowledge it has not happened yet so here you at least can see an informal map over these often interesting areas.

C - Areas for the Commuter and Waxholm Boats at Strömkajen and Nybrokajen

H - Is the areas where you can find a lot of historical boats after the different quays of the City

X - is the place of the wreck from the Danish warship Grå Ulven

At Strömkajen the base of the Waxholm Boats

The old steamship "Storskär" (Big Skerrie) here at Strömkajen where all the Vaxholm commuter boats are having their base, is still running regularly in the commuter traffic in the ice free part of the year, between Stockholm and Grenadjärbryggan at Rindö Vaxholm - It is a historic Swedish steamship with over a century of service in the Stockholm archipelago.

Key Historical Milestones
Construction (1908): Built at the Lindholmen shipyard in Gothenburg, Sweden.

Original Identity: It was delivered to Strängnäs Nya Rederi AB and originally operated under the name Strängnäs Express. It also operated under the name Stockholm early in its history.
Acquisition by Waxholmsbolaget (1940): The ship was renamed Storskär in 1940 after joining the Waxholmsbolaget fleet.
Modern Service: Considered a flagship of the Waxholmsbolaget fleet, it remains one of the few authentic coal-fired steamships still in regular passenger service.

Technical Specifications
Engine: Powered by a yard-built steam engine producing approximately 659 hp.

Capacity: Designed to carry up to 320 passengers.
Dimensions: It measures roughly 36.98 meters in length and 6.99 meters in width.
The ship is a central part of Stockholm's maritime heritage and is a frequent participant in annual events like "Skärgårdsbåtens dag" (Archipelago Boat Day).

Another of the well known steam ships "Norrskär" (North Skerrie) that is still running regularly in the commuter traffic in the ice free part of the year, between Stockholm, Vaxholm and the outer islands in the middle part of Stockolm Archipelago - here covered and ritired just oppisit the Stockholm Royal Castle for maintenance during the winter. 

Brief History: The S/S Norrskär is a classic example of the passenger steamboats that have been a vital part of Stockholm's maritime heritage.

Archipelago Service: For much of its history, the vessel has been used for passenger excursions and ferry services between Stockholm and various islands in the archipelago, such as Sandhamn.

Steamboat Tradition: It is part of a traditional fleet that continues to operate, often featured in events like "Archipelago Boat Day" (Skärgårdsbåtens dag).
Operational Status: The boat remains an active piece of living history, providing guided tours and scenic cruises for visitors.

At Skeppsholmen (the old naval base of Stockholm) 

Torsten is a historic Swedish tugboat built in 1895 at the Södra Varvet shipyard in Stockholm. 

Original Use: It was originally built as a steam-powered tugboat for the company Stockholms Transport- och Bogserings AB.
Engine Upgrades: Over the decades, its power system was modernized multiple times. The original steam engine (100 Ihk) was replaced by a Crossley diesel engine in 1960, and later by a Scania DS 11 engine in the 1990s.

Current Life: Today, Torsten is a well-known sight in Stockholm, often docked at Skeppsholmen. It serves as a living piece of maritime history and is frequently used as a private leisure vessel or "houseboat" style residence.

Skeppsholmen is the small historical island where Stockholms naval base once was situated for houndreds of years. Nowadays it is one of the places where Stockholms maritime heritage is moored. Other places are Djurgårdsvarvet, Norrmälarstrand and Södermälarstrand in the Lake Mälaren and together they form a sort of informal maritime city park. Especially at Skeppsholmen there is a lot of historical vessels which makes the place worthwhile to visit for tourists. Quite a few of these boats are inhabited year-round.

Violette, a historic vessel currently serving as a houseboat in Stockholm

History & Origins
Built: She was constructed in the early 20th century.
Early Use: Originally, the Violette served as a passenger steamship.
Transformation: Over the decades, she was retired from commercial service and meticulously renovated to become a private residence.

Current Status
Location: She is permanently moored at Skeppsholmen in central Stockholm.

Community: The boat is a member of the Stockholm Ship Association (Stockholms Skeppsförening), a community dedicated to preserving historic ships and providing a unique living environment on the water.

Features: Her design retains many classic maritime elements, such as the wooden wheelhouse and white-painted hull, which are common sights along the Skeppsholmen quays

The Finn was originally built as a tugboat (Swedish: bogserbåt)

Modernization: It underwent a significant reconstruction in 1947, after which it was classified as a cargo motor vessel (lastmotorfartyg).

Current Use: Like many vintage ships at Skeppsholmen it has been retired from commercial service and now serves as a private residence or recreational vessel.

Historical Context: The ship was earlier part of a cluster of well-preserved historic vessels at Norr Mälarstrand , a scenic quay on the island of Kungsholmen of Stockholm known for its collection of classic wooden and iron boats.

The name "Finn" is a traditional Nordic name, often associated with historical and legendary figures in Swedish and Finnish culture, such as the giant "Jätten Finn".

On the boat the owner that also is named Finn!

At Kastellholmen

Just a short walk east over a small bridge will take you to another smaller island called Kastellholmen (named afters a small "fortress" on top of the island) and on the southern side of the island we this day with its extremely low water level could se this old historic Danish warship that was the reason I made the journey to Stockholm this day.

The shipwreck visible at Kastellholmen is a 17th-century warship, most widely identified as the Grå Ulven (Gray Wolf)

It has gained significant attention recently due to exceptionally low water levels in the Baltic Sea, reaching points not seen in approximately 100 years.

Visibility and the 2026 Phenomenon
The wreck is rarely seen because the Baltic Sea has almost no tidal movement. Its emergence in early 2026 was caused by a prolonged high-pressure system over the Nordic region, which pushed water out of the Baltic toward the North Sea.

 Here the Danish warship Grå Ulven at Kastellholmen. The water you see is called Strömmen or The Stream in English since it is two streams on each side of the Old City-island and it is often open despite the cold ice-winter. In the backgrumd you see the houses on the eastern side of the Old City called Skeppsbron or the Ship's Bridge - a place which historically served as the commercial harbor of Stockholm. The cold and brachish waters of Strömmen has preserved the oak tree surprisingly well after all years.

There are a few other old wrecks along the shores of Kastellholmen and like Grå Ulven they where deliberately sunk in this case to be used for foundations for old bridges. laso around Vaxholm they have used the same methods but in that case it was to block enemy ships from passing between certain islands. There are also stone barriers between some of the islands build on the bottom up that are invisible for the eyes but they are there about just 1/2 a meter below the surface. Yeach year there are houndreds of accidents just around Vaxholm per year when pleasure boats hits these barriers or other under water skerries. So it is a good idea to take navigation seriously in these shallow fortified waters.

Strömkajen

Västan is a historic Swedish ferry often referred to as the "Grand Old Lady" of the Waxholmsbolaget fleet

Here at Strömkajen covered under winter protection, with the island Södermalm in the background,

Short History of MV Västan
Construction: The ship was built in 1900 by Motala Verkstad.

Original Name: It was originally named Nya Svartsjölandet.

Legacy: As of 2023, the vessel celebrated its 123rd anniversary. It is one of the three classic "tradition" ships in the fleet, alongside the steamships S/S Norrskär and S/S Storskär.

Current Service: Today, it continues to operate in the Stockholm archipelago, frequently seen at Strömkajen in central Stockholm or at the Vaxholm harbor.

The Waxholm I commuter vessel is docked at Strömkajen in Stockholm, Sweden. The vessel is designed to break through thick ice, a feature necessary for navigating the waters around Stockholm during winter months when the faster boats like the one you can see to the left can´t make it through the ice. The ship has served the Stockholm archipelago for over four decades now and is very important as a "life line" for many out in the islands in the winter.

This and a few other of the bigger vessels that are equiped with hydrulic cranes are very important as they serve as cargo ships during of season when there are few tourists.

Service History and Key Events
Delivery and Early Years: Built by Lunde Varv och Verkstads AB, the vessel was delivered to Waxholms Ångfartygs AB on June 30, 1983, at a cost of 8.5 million SEK. Along with its sister ship, M/S Waxholm II, it became the backbone of winter traffic in the middle Stockholm archipelago until the early 2000s.

Operational Incidents: On September 21, 1993, while undergoing a refit in Fredrikshavn, Denmark, a fire broke out in the water on its starboard side. The ship sustained damage to its forward deck, necessitating the replacement of interior ceilings, carpets, and furnishings.

Technical Upgrades: During the same 1993 stay in Denmark, new MAN D2842 LE main engines (836 hp each) were installed.
ications and Role

Dimensions: It is a sturdy cruise-style vessel measuring approximately 36 meters in length.

Current Service: Today, it continues to operate as part of the Waxholmsbolaget fleet, frequently seen at terminals like Strömkajen and Vaxholm. It remains an active part of the public transport network, recently being part of a trial where SL (Stockholm Public Transport) tickets are accepted for archipelago travel.

A trip with the icebreaking commuter vessel Waxholm 1 from Stockholm to the end station of the line 4 to Grenadjärbryggan at Rindö Island

A trip from Strömlajen in the central Stockholm through the archipelago between Stockholm and Vaxholm in the ice-winter in February on the ice-going commuter ferry Waxholm I - A view from a boat window shows a frozen landscape with a distant shoreline and a cloudy sky. The scene captures the stillness and beauty of a winter day in the Stockholm Archipelago. The ferry is navigating through ice-covered waters, showcasing the unique winter conditions of the region.

A stop at Hasseludden on the peninsula of Värmdö - The commuter ferry Waxholm I approaches Hasseludden, a peninsula on the island of Värmdö, during a winter journey through the Stockholm Archipelago. Passengers disembark onto the snowy shore, while the ferry continues its route through the icy waters. 

Around 17 hours it start s to get dark - Here Waxholm I is passing a small sound between the two small islands of Granholmen and Östra Granholmen) - this sound is so narrow that Waxholm I barely makes it at such low water as it was this trip and in these conditions they can´t serve some of the piers with shallow waters - The two white spots are two swans - The Waxholm I ferry navigates through a sound filled with ice floes, a common sight during the winter months in the Stockholm archipelago. The ferry provides a unique transportation experience, allowing passengers to witness the beauty of the frozen landscape. But this part of the year there are very few tourists that travels out in the islands in the evenings. The few that are here  are on their way back to Stockholm instead.

Waxholm I has landed for a short stop at Vaxholm which is a small town of 5000 inhabitants serving as a hub for the Vaxholm´s Company fleet. Now the town is very quit but in a year there is around one million passing here - many by boat. At this time when the water is so low, old people have hard to get on and of the vessel - In the background the old Vaxholm Hotel. The historic Vaxholm Hotel is visible in the background, while pedestrians disembark from the ferry. The scene captures a quiet moment before the expected influx of visitors.

Waxholm Fortress - A well-lit fortress stands prominently on an island within a dark, calm body of water. The structure, constructed of stone, features a central dome and surrounding walls, illuminated by warm artificial light. The reflection of the fortress is visible on the water's surface, creating a symmetrical effect. The scene conveys a sense of history and tranquility.

Vaxholm Fortress: The Lock of Stockholm

History and Early Origins
The first fortification on the island of Vaxholmen was commissioned by King Gustav Vasa between 1549 and 1558. At this time, it was a simple wooden blockhouse and stone tower designed to control the main sea route into Stockholm. Its strategic importance was proven early on when it successfully withstood two major attacks against the capital.

The Evolution of "The Lock"
For centuries, Vaxholm Fortress functioned as the primary defense for Stockholm from the sea, earning it the nickname "Stockholms lås" (The Lock of Stockholm). The current stone structure seen today was built much later, between 1833 and 1863. This massive reconstruction was prompted by the loss of Finland to Russia in the early 1800s, which left Sweden's eastern coast more vulnerable.

Military Significance
The fortress was designed to be impregnable, featuring thick granite walls and heavy artillery. It played a crucial role in coastal defense, and its presence effectively forced all incoming ships to pass within range of its cannons. However, the rapid advancement of artillery technology during the 19th century eventually rendered the stone walls obsolete against modern explosive shells.

But it once prevented the Danish fleet from passing into Stockholm in the sixteen houndreds and in the seventeen houndreds it prevented the Russions to do the same. On the east of the Island of Rindö just behind the fortress there are a lot of heavy fortifications and especially on both sides of present main deap sea-lane to Stockholm

Modern Day
Today, Vaxholm Fortress is no longer an active military site. Instead, it serves as a cultural destination housing the Vaxholm Fortress Museum, which showcases 500 years of coastal defense history. Visitors can explore exhibitions ranging from military history to life on the fortress in the late 1800s.

The commuter ferry Waxholm I is approaching the Southwestern Waxholm Bay - It navigates through the dark waters of the Stockholm Archipelago, its powerful headlights illuminating the path ahead. The scene captures the essence of a nighttime journey, with the distant lights of Waxholm visible on the shore. The vessel's bow cuts through the water, creating a dynamic sense of movement and direction. When the ship is breaking the ice it generates quite a lot of noise and especially on lower deck that can be very disturbing if you have to listen to it for the hours a trip like this might take in the winter.  The journey from Stockholm to Rindö in the thick ice often takes twice as long as in the summer since the engines has to be spared from overheating by the ice. They are not run on full speed constantly of that reason.

The commuter ferry Waxhom I is approaching the island of Ramsö in the darkness of the afternoon. The ferry's lights illuminate the water as it travels towards the island's harbor, which is visible in the background. If there are people waiting for the boat on the pier there are semafores at all the piers that people can use to signal to the captains.

The commuter ferry Waxholm I is approaching the island of Ramsö - Ramsö is a pretty small island with very few inhabitants in the winter. Here an old lady trying to debark on the steep gangway - Two ferry employees are seen on the gangway, preparing for the arrival of passengers. The scene captures a quiet moment on a winter's evening in the Swedish archipelago, highlighting the importance of ferry transport to remote island communities. These ferries are a real life line for the people living out here. Some permanent living people on even more isolated ilands like the adjacent Skogsö where I earlier had a summer house even use to get free helicopter flights to Vaxholm when the boats can´t approach their jetties in the winter.

To the very left you can see these semafores used to signal to the captains.

Waxholm I is approaching the jetty at Vegabryggan on the southern shore of Rindö Island in the late dark afternoon. - Buildings line the shore, illuminated by streetlights.

The commuter ferry Waxholm I arrives at Grandjärbryggan pier on Rindö Island, marking the end of a two-hour journey through the Stockholm Archipelago. Passengers disembark as crew members prepare the ferry for its return trip. The scene is illuminated by the ferry's lights and nearby street lamps, highlighting the quiet beauty of the island at night.

Grandjärbryggan the end stop of the commuter line 4 at Rindö Island - A snow-covered pier at night, with people walking towards a building in the distance. A ferry terminal is visible, illuminated by streetlights. The scene captures a quiet moment on Rindö Island.

At last back home at Rindö again after a whole days travel. I started around 11 and are back again in one of the old converted military barracks where I live since three years back. This bulding was part of the old KA I Coastal Artillery regement that was closed 2005 - A large, yellow building stands prominently in a snowy landscape. The structure appears to be a former military barracks, now converted for residential use. Warm light emanates from the windows, creating a welcoming atmosphere against the backdrop of a winter night. A snow-covered street leads towards the building, suggesting a quiet, residential area.

People out here on Rindö often keep the string lights they put up on their balconies at Christmas as an attempt to mitigate the influence of the otherwise long and massive winter darkness.

If you don´t like the Ice-Winter and the darkness you might prefer Rindö Harbor in the summer instead:

To Rindöhamn - by shuttle boat - Photo page